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Spotlight - equipment views and reviews from the AK team

Font at Easter

By Derrick Bolger
04, Apr, 2014

Derrick draws on his 27 years experience of climbing at the sandstone mecca of Fontainebleau


It has been 15 years since our tradition of taking an Easter trip to Font began. I got my first taste of those iconic sandstone boulders on the way back from Verdon Gorge in ’87. Following that, a group of friends and I decided to go one Easter and it has been tradition ever since.

Easter is a popular time to go; it is the first bank holiday of the year and a very motivational start for the (climbing) year to come. The weather is generally a little warmer and milder so more amicable for those fair weather climbers and non-climbing family members. However, there is no guarantee on the weather; one year we arrived and there was 2 inches of snow on top of all the boulders!

Grooving it up

Fontainebleau is a great family destination - not just climbers; I have taken my family along with me since the kids were tiny. They may put on a whole kicking and screaming routine but that was just for fun; kids tend to complain for the hell of it. As long as you keep them fed, they’ll be happy. We would always take a huge picnic with us, including the obligatory camembert and Parisian baguette. One of my daughters was often on crutches or in a wheelchair when we went to Font and we never had any difficulty getting around so it is a great place to take a young family where you might want to take a pushchair.

There is a lot to offer in Font and the surrounding areas for climbers and non-climbers alike. The boulders themselves are dispersed over an area of around 1200 square kilometers, bursting at the seams with circuits and boulder problems for every stage and style of climber: from the complete novice to the dedicated expert, from the casual climbers who enjoy eating cheese and observing as much as they enjoy getting on the rock to those who will keep going until their fingertips are shredded. The most notable person I have seen in Font has to be Jacky Godoffe; he’s a god, climbs about 8b, one of the Font gurus. I have seen him a few times. Also, I have seen Jo and Francoise Montchaussé about too. The three of them are the authors of Fontainebleau Climbs; an excellent guidebook for all abilities.

Topping out

For non-climbers or on rest days, there are many adventures to be had either cycling, walking and even on horse back. Fontainebleau itself has some excellent cultural activities, such as visiting the magnificent Château de Fontainebleau and some quirky little patisseries where the age old debate of croissant or pain au chocolate can be settled; I go for both. Paris is a mere 55 km away so it as an easy day trip to make.

Over the past few decades that I have been visiting Font, I have managed to explore most, if not all, the accommodation options. Gîtes are in abundance (but book early!); they are a fantastic option for families wanting the comforts or home but also for large groups.

Camping and caravanning in and around the forest is another convenient option for all Easter Font-goers. Plus, of course, there are many hotels to choose from. There is also a Formula 1 hotel just outside Fontainebleau.

Working a classic

The first time I took a bouldering mat with me to Font was about ten years ago when I was given one by Snap. These days I bring a Mujo Mutant and a Woomf with me, just for when my top tip: ‘don’t fall off!’, doesn’t go to plan.

The essentials that I recommend for a trip to Font are: boots; chalk; bouldering mat and a brush. I always use a Lapis brush, they are the bomb! The issue of pof is an ever controversial one. I have never used it.

More climbing in Font

As for top circuits, my personal favourites are the blues at Roche aux Sabots and blues at Canche aux Merciers. I couldn’t pick out one problem though, they are all good. I usually take the 5+6 Fontainebleau guidebook with me; for the blue circuits, it’s just fantastic!.

Despite having climbed at Font many times over the last 27 years, I still keep going back for more; I enjoy the ambiance and whole climbing experience. There are too many climbs, too little time. You should always use the ‘3-goes-move-on’ policy, unless getting very close to success. Life’s too short to spend hours trying to do one problem.

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