Our site works best with JavaScript enabled.

Daring Deeds - real stories, expeditions, road trips and adventure

So summer, so good

By Ramon Marin
20, Aug, 2014

Clocking up the miles for a good summers climbing and my first E7

A good summer

So I went over and led the thing, no big fuss. I moved efficiently despite being a tad nervous. I took my time, no need to rush, I savoured the gorgeoursly textured sandstone all the way to the top. In headpointing, the questing uncertainity of an onsight is not there, so the experience of my first E7 felt a lot more of a controlled than I thought. But the most important thing is that Yukan II is a great route, a great feature to climb, and I'm glad it wasn't a big mental deal. The day was just a bunch of friends psyched to visit the crag for the first time and really enjoying the climbing. It's what climbing is all about for me.

Another day dawned at Nesscliffe, and after battling the rain again, me and Stephen drove south. I was heading to Shipwreck cove, he was going to Pembroke, so we thought we can squeeze an evening session at Witches point. We arrived to a glorious sunset. I almost onsighted Staple Diet 7b+ putting the clips in, falling just before the chains. Stephen flash it and I sent it next go. I felt good and fit despite the 4hr drive and not having had a rest for a while. I knew then that I had a really good chance to do my project at Shipwreck.

Stephen going for the flash on Yukan II E7. 

I woke up to the cows banging their heads against the van at 9am. I was hoping for a lie-in as the tide was late, but the cows had other plans. Soon enough the coffee pots were on the conveyor belt in the van and suitably caffeinated we went for a bit of a quest. We found the amazingly futuristic cave, but I can't disclose any more details as the people that discover it want to keep it quiet. I can only say that it will probably be the best sport climbing venue in the South.

We finally made it to the cove, just to see a feck load of people at the crag. But I needn't to worry, there was some sort of gathering and no one was on my project, Vennerne. The jury is still out whether is 7c+ or 8a, but to me it's harder than the six other 8a's I've done, maybe it just doesn't suit me. But it's such an awesome route that I always look forward to get on it. So I got on it, warmed up to it by putting the draws. It was an instant feeling, the conditions were amazing, I moved well, my head was there in the right place. It was the first time I could do the crux moves... I felt a surge of psyche... I can do this today. I belayed Dave on his project and he dutifully dispatch it. I tied in and went for it. I felt pumped on the first section, but I knew this was going to be my best go, my body feeling the punishing schedule of last month. I milked the rest at halfway, brought my heart rate right down. And then went for it on full attack mode, and it paid off. I gave it all the barrels, I had came down pleased to have closed the year-long account. I suitably packed beers, a sign I knew this could be the day, and dedicated the rest of the day at getting slightly tipsy.

More photos and the full report over on my blog.

  • Google+

In pictures

A good summer

  bouldering mats climbing ramon marin

No Comments

Share your thoughts about this article.

Related Deeds

The Rise of Erin
Climbing Ireland's hidden gems
In Daring Deeds
Cragweek
Seven days of cragging
In Daring Deeds
Craic and Cracks: part two
Climbing in Squamish
In Daring Deeds
Craic and Cracks: part one
Two weeks in Squamish
In Daring Deeds
Cuillin Speed
Moving fast along the ridge
In Daring Deeds

News

UBMC Training Volunteer Instructors
Instructor training for university clubs
In News
Endeavour for Empowerment
Climbing towards positive futures
In News
Alpkit Ambleside Opening Event
new store opening event
In News
Sheffield Schools’ Bouldering 2017
school bouldering comp
In News
Job: Factory Assistant
more jobs in the Alpkit UK factory
In News

Develop

UK-made climbing packs
Developing Ibex and Chamois
In Develop
Gravitas Lightweight Activity Waterproof
New activity shell coming soon
In Develop
Ekins on the Zhota
Alex Ekins reports back on using the Zhota tent
In Develop
Ben’s Boulder Bucket
Ben helps develop a new boulder bucket
In Develop
A call for help
Alpkit help Andy Kirkpatrick out
In Develop

Spotlight

Kinder’s Ramparts
Rediscovering why we climb
In Spotlight
Reality Checks and Countryside Cravings
Meet Hati, our new wordsmith
In Spotlight
A Boulder Construction
Tough UK made bouldering
In Spotlight
Weekend Warrior days are history
Introducing new Customer Support Hero, Rowan
In Spotlight
Symonds Yat Adventure
multi sport location in the Wye Valley
In Spotlight

Kudos

Explore Alpkit

adventure
adventure racing
adventure travel
alpine climbing
backpacking
ballooning
big shakeout
big wall climbing
bike packing
bike touring
bikepacking
biking
bivvying
bouldering
bushcraft
camping
canoeing
canyoning
caving
climbing
clothing
coasteering
cooking
cross country skiing
cycle touring
cycletouring
cycling
deep water soloing
dry tooling
duke of edinburgh
endurance
endurance racing
expedition
fat bikes
fat biking
film making
hiking
hill walking
ice climbing
kayaking
micro adventure
mountain biking
mountaineering
munro round
night running
open water
open water swimming
outdoor photography
outdoor swimming
paddling