Our site works best with JavaScript enabled.

Daring Deeds - real stories, expeditions, road trips and adventure

So summer, so good

By Ramon Marin
20, Aug, 2014

Clocking up the miles for a good summers climbing and my first E7

A good summer

So I went over and led the thing, no big fuss. I moved efficiently despite being a tad nervous. I took my time, no need to rush, I savoured the gorgeoursly textured sandstone all the way to the top. In headpointing, the questing uncertainity of an onsight is not there, so the experience of my first E7 felt a lot more of a controlled than I thought. But the most important thing is that Yukan II is a great route, a great feature to climb, and I'm glad it wasn't a big mental deal. The day was just a bunch of friends psyched to visit the crag for the first time and really enjoying the climbing. It's what climbing is all about for me.

Another day dawned at Nesscliffe, and after battling the rain again, me and Stephen drove south. I was heading to Shipwreck cove, he was going to Pembroke, so we thought we can squeeze an evening session at Witches point. We arrived to a glorious sunset. I almost onsighted Staple Diet 7b+ putting the clips in, falling just before the chains. Stephen flash it and I sent it next go. I felt good and fit despite the 4hr drive and not having had a rest for a while. I knew then that I had a really good chance to do my project at Shipwreck.

Stephen going for the flash on Yukan II E7. 

I woke up to the cows banging their heads against the van at 9am. I was hoping for a lie-in as the tide was late, but the cows had other plans. Soon enough the coffee pots were on the conveyor belt in the van and suitably caffeinated we went for a bit of a quest. We found the amazingly futuristic cave, but I can't disclose any more details as the people that discover it want to keep it quiet. I can only say that it will probably be the best sport climbing venue in the South.

We finally made it to the cove, just to see a feck load of people at the crag. But I needn't to worry, there was some sort of gathering and no one was on my project, Vennerne. The jury is still out whether is 7c+ or 8a, but to me it's harder than the six other 8a's I've done, maybe it just doesn't suit me. But it's such an awesome route that I always look forward to get on it. So I got on it, warmed up to it by putting the draws. It was an instant feeling, the conditions were amazing, I moved well, my head was there in the right place. It was the first time I could do the crux moves... I felt a surge of psyche... I can do this today. I belayed Dave on his project and he dutifully dispatch it. I tied in and went for it. I felt pumped on the first section, but I knew this was going to be my best go, my body feeling the punishing schedule of last month. I milked the rest at halfway, brought my heart rate right down. And then went for it on full attack mode, and it paid off. I gave it all the barrels, I had came down pleased to have closed the year-long account. I suitably packed beers, a sign I knew this could be the day, and dedicated the rest of the day at getting slightly tipsy.

More photos and the full report over on my blog.

  • Google+

In pictures

A good summer

No Comments

Share your thoughts about this article.

Related Deeds

Gipsy Anniversary
Daniela and Paulo have been setting new routes
In Daring Deeds
Talking Torridon Tales 2
Midgies and respect the bothy
In Daring Deeds
Talking Torridon Tales
Climbing and exploring the Scottish highlands
In Daring Deeds
Adventures with Dad
inspiration for an outdoor life from dad
In Daring Deeds

News

Adventures for Life Skills
Building life skills through a 19 day adventure in the Scottish Highlands
In News
Climbing With The Pivot Academy
The Pivot Academy is going climbing
In News
27 Peaks in 77 Days
Jarda Zaoral is taking on Europes 27 peaks
In News
What’s in store bank holiday weekend?
Make the most of this Bank Holiday
In News
GB Paraclimber Starts a New Challenge
John Churcher starts an outdoor bouldering mission
In News

Develop

Bags more packs in our range
Developing new kit for you to put your kit in
In Develop
Gripping Developments
A whole new glove range: the inside story
In Develop
The low-down on Polygiene™
Wear more, wash less: you can't get simpler than that!
In Develop
UK-made climbing packs
Developing Ibex and Chamois
In Develop
Gravitas Lightweight Activity Waterproof
New activity shell coming soon
In Develop

Spotlight

Apogee Jacket: Worry-Free Warmth
Reviewing the Apogee Synthetic Jacket
In Spotlight
What a Difference a Day Makes
What can you fit into the Bank Holiday?
In Spotlight
Top Spots: Hathersage Haunts
What to do whilst you're here
In Spotlight
Top Spots: Ambleside Activities
Our favourite things to do in Ambleside
In Spotlight
Kinder’s Ramparts
Rediscovering why we climb
In Spotlight

Kudos