Our site works best with JavaScript enabled.

Daring Deeds - real stories, expeditions, road trips and adventure

Looking up and Mixing it up

By Ramon Marin | 01, Feb, 2011

Ramon and Rob checking out Gasterntal

It took a while to recover from the 3 pitch lead “Rise and Shine”, and not being able to finish the route left a sour after-taste. Trying to find what to do next, that’s good, in condition and that we haven’t done before is quite tricky. We racked our brains and I suggested to have a look at “Buch Dich”, M7+ Wi6ish and 150mts. Being a Marcus Stofer route we knew it was gonna be no walk in the park, and in fact Rob has been on it before but didn’t take trad gear and had to come down. It looked very thin and the ice was dark, indicating possible de-lamination from the rock, but we went up nonetheless. Rob sent the first pitch of ice, which in fact was delaminated and made it quiet sketchy and not very well protected. Once at the belay, I set off for the first mixed pitch and soon I was faced with a leaning crack-line with very sketchy holds. I didn’t feel confident looking at the ice pick I have on one of my Nomics bending too much as I torqued in the crack with all my body weight. Nevermind, I swapped tool and used the one with the mixed pick and move up. I did a few moves but then I realised that the ice I was going for was way too thin and unconsolidated. That mixed with with burning forearms, I accepted failure once again. Not to waste the rest of day, we had an exploratory afternoon and found some interesting and exciting things which we’ll be reporting soon.

Rob on the first pitch of “Buch Dich”

Anyways, not letting the little “project management” mishap get in the way of motivation, today we chose something we knew was in condition and fitted the bill. A mixed line, aesthetic and on gear, called “Reise ins Reich” which is the mixed line connecting to the famous Wi6 free-standing “Reise Integral” pillar, a total of 175mts. It’s not that hard, at M6+ and the ice at the top somewhere in the easy Wi6, but the rock section was total choss and exposed. Rob demonstrated he is getting back on form by pulling a scary lead on the mixed section and I had my troubles seconding it! The ice at the top was super fun and it was a great feeling ticking the route “within comfort zone”, especially on a route that I always wanted to do. This year “Reise Integral” is not formed, so the only way up to the cool ice above is via this mixed route, I love it that mixed climbing opens up so many more options.

“Reise ins Reich” is the line furthest left linking some ice into the cave to belay. Then traverse right onto Reise Integral and belay behind the free-standing pillar. We finished up the parallel ramp up right.

Rob about to enter the chossy M6+ section on “Reise ins Reich”

Exposure! You can see the pick placements the way we came up

Coming down we spend another while looking for my Nomic that went walkabout and some angle peg that we lost. We found other stuff, but nothing that we were looking for. I will keep looking, but I think that’s a goner. We looked also at the other mixed lines, one put up by Ueli Steck, another by Robert Jasper and then the “Maikel doesn’t like flowers” again. I couldn’t really figure out where the lines go as the guidebook is actually quite crap once you start digging in. So I don’t think we’ll be trying these lines anytime soon.

Rob abseiling Reise Integral dagger.

It’s so nice to be that close to so many lines. The approach from our front door is about 30min.

  • Google+

In pictures

No Comments

Share your thoughts about this article.

Related Deeds

Mont Blanc in a day
Anna Wells attempts the ultimate "day hit"
In Daring Deeds
Five thousand metres of vertical joy
sunsets and big days in the Alps
In Daring Deeds
Ridges through the Sky
Anna Wells on Scottish Winter
In Daring Deeds


Anna Wells - Ice Climbing World Cup
UIAA 2015 Lead competition circuit
In News
Winter Getaway choice
A selection of wintery goodies
In News
Careful Torque for Ramon
Ramon climbs Careful Torque M11
In News
Figfour update
Figfour stock update.
In News
Drytool Style final round report
Figfour sponsors DTS series.
In News


Keeshond Hybrid Fleece
Warm, light and breathable high loft fleece
In Develop
Modifying Figfour Handles
Customise your Figfours with Sugru.
In Develop
Figfour drytool handle design
In developing Figfour we tested a wide variety of grip types.
In Develop
Figfour design notes
Innovative design.
In Develop


Crazy arctic nights and pulling on the trail tights
Introducing new customer service hero, Dave
In Spotlight
Catch Nature off Guard
Travel Quieter, Lighter and further, and stay out longer
In Spotlight
Scottish Suffering
Customer Support Hero, Fran’s favourite kit for Scottish winter climbing.
In Spotlight
Roca Winter Climbing Ropes
A look at the options for winter climbers in the Roca range
In Spotlight
Your companion in adventure
Filo the go anywhere down jacket
In Spotlight