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Daring Deeds - real stories, expeditions, road trips and adventure

Electric Blue

By Luke Tilley
24, Sep, 2012

Luke Tilley climbs his first deep water solo at Rhoscolyn in Anglesey and sets the spectators pulses racing

Relief all-round, especially amongst the spectators

At the end of a summer centered around competing in the European Youth Cups I had one weekend booked since January that I was really looking forward to. Alpkit took their Tipi across to Anglesey on the north coast of Wales and I had such a good time and got on some great climbs.

After the dampness of the night was soaked up by the ever stronger sun we stood looking at the waterfall falling over the routes we had talked of doing on Roscolyn. Wandering around the headland we peeped down at the other potential line to find rather horrifyingly that this line was dry. This threw us into the deep end, literally!

The first route we did was Electric Blue (E4 6a), however we did this in the more popular deepwater solo style. This was my first deepwater solo and quite a gripping affair. I did it first go to my relief, it was amazing to be so exposed and in such a great position, not attached to the rock at all but know that if you were to fall it would be ok.

Smooth climbing past the crux leads to easier but committing terrain

I didn’t want to call it a day at that so we made our way across an interesting approach and I battled my way up Warpath E5 6a. Enough had been done for that day, swimming in the sea later gave us an idea of how could things could have gone. 

Warpath E5 6a

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In pictures

Relief all-round, especially amongst the spectators
Dan rigging the abseil into the foot of Electric Blue
Luke committing to the route
Smooth climbing past the crux leads to easier but committing terrain
Warpath E5 6a

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