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Spotlight - equipment views and reviews from the AK team

Morphosis in Action

By Gabe Oliver
19, Oct, 2017

Having taken the Morphosis jacket on a variety of adventures, Garment Technologist Gabe gives us the lowdown on how it performed in the field.

I've used the Morphosis jacket for a variety of adventures:

  • Multi pitch climbing (up to 14 pitches) in Squamish, British Columbia
  • Slipping and sliding around Snakes, Ladders and Tunnels in Llanberis, North Wales
  • Sport climbing in gale-force winds in Portland, UK
  • Walking into Coire an t’Sneachda in February then worn underneath a shell for climbing
  • General cragging out and around the Peak District

I’m a climber first and foremost and despite working with outdoor clothing I’ve never been able to find what I would describe as the “perfect climbing outerlayer”. What I mean by that is an outerlayer that is super breathable, windproof, comfortable, quiet, warm, and practical. It should let you move fast without overheating, give you the freedom of movement to climb technical rock, and do all that whilst keeping off all but the worst weather so you stay warm and comfortable. I mean I can pretty much hear angels singing and I’m expecting to see Indiana Jones fighting some bad guys on top of a train – it's virtually the Holy Grail!

This is the smiley face of a man who has found unfathomable clothing nirvana

Now, I accept I’m probably a bit biased, but genuinely I think that the Morphosis Jacket and Smock is the closest to this unfathomable clothing nirvana that I’ve ever encountered. I’ve always loved the windshell because it keeps just enough of the weather off to keep you warm and comfortable. The addition of a partial fleece liner in the Morphosis eliminates the need for another midlayer in all but the coldest weather. Sling this over a Kepler merino baselayer and you’ve got a comfortable, breathable layering system for all eventualities!

The Morphosis undergoing the 'a day out in Wales whilst it's raining' section of our rigorous testing procedure

The outer fabric is deceptively protective and you wouldn’t believe the weather conditions it keeps off! I spent an entire day out in consistent drizzle, mist and rain in the Llanberis slate quarries and this thing was still comfortable to wear. Normal windshells would have given up the ghost but the liner meant that even when the outer DWR wets out, it doesn’t feel cold and between showers the outer fabric dries so fast that you can stay comfortable the whole day without needing to switch layers! It even kept me comfortable walking into 40mph winds and driving snow during a walk into Coire an t’Sneachda back in February. Granted, it’s not bombproof (as I discovered when I got intimate with a granite chimney in Squamish) but for such a simple product, this thing packs a serious punch. 9 times out of 10, it goes in my climbing pack now and you can’t say fairer than that! 

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