Our site works best with JavaScript enabled.

Daring Deeds - real stories, expeditions, road trips and adventure

Himalayan Adventures: Shan-Ri - Part 2

By Daniela and Paulo
13, Dec, 2018

Paulo leads a group to a 6197m unclimbed peak in the Himalayas

If you've not read part 1 yet, catch up here.

Base camp at 4400m

 

Two days resting at base camp (4400m) and: “Here we go!”

Since we left a big part of the gear stashed at camp I, this time we were fast, managing to reach the tents at 5170m, in a mere three hours.

The next day we packed everything, and again with heavy loads we climbed up to the glacier from where we had a clearer view of the mountains.

We pitched the tents at 5550m. We were lucky to find a relatively comfortable spot on a rocky moraine out of the glacier ice. From there we could see the whole range and finally decided on one mountain. It would be the last peak of the valley, with no name and no known ascent. For sure it was more than 6000 meters!

On the next day (31st August), we left the tents at 4:00 a.m. and spent the next three hours crossing the very gentle glacier with no crevasses at all. No rope needed. Perfect!

The team crossing the glacier at dawn

Looking at the north face of the mountain we immediately chose the line to climb. On the first 100m we climbed on moderate ice and didn´t need to belay much. Essentially, we were simul climbing. After that preliminary section we climbed two more 50m ice pitches, finding some mixed moves on the way. The final “pitch” was a steep 100m ice ramp that proved a bit strenuous to the team`s calves. We had a good rest at the ridge to rehydrate and eat something before committing to the last part of the route. In front of us there was a beautiful ridge to cross. The north face of the mountain, a deep void falling directly to the glacier, was on our right hand. “We have to take care there. Remember, if someone slips, just scream loud for the rope mate to react on time and jump to the other side of the ridge… the partner really has to jump!” I emphasized the tone. It looked like an easy ridge, just walking, but not allowing for any distraction. Carefully, we crossed it. The snow was perfect so, in the end, we did it easily. After the ridge, we found another steep ramp to climb. That was the last obstacle before the summit that we reached at 2:30 p.m.

 

Top left: João at one of the belays | Bottom left: João, Tiago and Pedro, in the middle of the north face of “Shan-Ri” | Middle: Pedro climbing the “North Face Indirect” | Right: Me at the summit of Shan-Ri (6197m)

The weather was perfect and the air was clear. We could see distant mountains on the horizon, how many of them unclimbed I wondered? The GPS marked 6197m. The team was happy, it was their first virgin summit, what a privilege!

João, Pedro, Tiago and me at the summit of Shan-Ri (6197m)

 

Being the guide, I was starting to feel a real sense of mission accomplished, however there was one “little detail” preventing me from full relaxation… we were at the summit of the mountain, not at the bottom! Carefully we started our descent. After one 60m V-thread abseil, we down climbed our route of ascent, then continued down the east ridge reaching a small col from where we had to abseil. We had some difficulty in finding a good spot to install the first rappel. The rock was extremely shattered and there was a lot of loose stones on the first few meters of the descent. We had to pull the ropes very carefully as there was the potential of many rocks falling on us. Not a good perspective at all! After a while I found a small crack at a relatively solid chunk and finally managed to place a small cam and a peg. Good enough! It took us three 60m abseils to reach the bersrhund. It was dusk already when we went down the glacier arriving at the abandoned bivi tents at camp II, at 10:00 p.m.

Coming down from the east ridge

 

Half an hour later, everyone was enjoying the coziness of the sleeping bags.

This time the “mission accomplished” feeling was finally complete.

Non-officially, we nicknamed the peak “Shan-Ri”. In Ladakhi language, “Shan” means “Snow leopard” and “Ri”, goes for “peak”. Our route of ascent was named “North face Indirect (300m)”. After that we followed the East ridge to gain the previously unclimbed summit.

Shan-Ri topo

  • Google+

In pictures

No Comments

Share your thoughts about this article.

Daring Deeds

Avalanche
When daring dreams turn into nightmares
Taking on the Three Peaks Challenge
The three highest peaks in the UK in one day.
Al Humphreys - Suilven
Al Humphreys takes his new Brompton on a trip to Suilven
A bloody long way North
Pete Whittaker takes of along on his bloody long trip
Five Ben Nevis Ridges in a Day
A new take on some Scottish classics
Mountaineering in Bolivia
Climbing Pequeño Alpamayo
Serra da Estrela - Our Backyard
Daniela & Paulo tell us about their local haunts
Himalayan Adventures: Part 3
Not everything goes to plan in the Himalayas

More from Deeds

News

Join us for the long easter weekend.
come along and catch nature off guard this weekend.
Competition Winners Begin Their Adventure
Winners of the Boulder Adventure competition depart on their trip
Vision of Adventure
Big pillow auction funds go to Vision of Adventure
So what is adventure?
A question of adventure
Erb’s Palsy Group Go Climbing
Climbing and caving experience day for children with Erb's Palsy
Alpkit Adventure Weekender
Join us in store for an adventure filled weekend
Castle Manor’s Camp Out
Building skills, confidence, and resilience in the outdoors
Adventures for Life Skills
Building life skills through a 19 day adventure in the Scottish Highlands

More from News

Develop

What’s so Genius About the Jeanius and Sequence Jeans?
Designer Ronnie discusses denim development
The scoop on softshell
Ardent and Resolute: our new softshell garments
Illuminating our Head Torch Development
Developing a new range of head torches
Keeshond Hybrid Fleece
Warm, light and breathable high loft fleece
Bags more packs in our range
New packs for you to put your kit in
Gripping Developments In Gloves
A whole new glove range: the inside story
The low-down on Polygiene™
Wear more, wash less: you can't get simpler than that!
UK-made climbing packs
Developing Ibex and Chamois

More from Develop

Spotlight

What’s So Wonderful About Wool?
Nature's technical fibre
How to Choose a Down Jacket
A handy guide to down jackets
How to choose a head torch
Buyer's guide: which is the best head torch for you?
Cuillin Ridge Traverse: Ten Top Tips
Tips to stay safe on the Cuillin Ridge Traverse
Know your Navigation
Take the right path
Where to Climb in the Peak District
Peak District Climbing Venues
Top Tips for Winter Climbing
Ramon Marin's winter climbing guide

Be the first to hear about our newest products and promotions

Join AlpCol's Espresso newsletter for that hit of Go Nice Places, Do Good Things Greatness

CLOSE

By adding your email you consent to our terms and conditions