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Daring Deeds - real stories, expeditions, road trips and adventure

A good 2010 season

By Luke Tilley | 03, Jan, 2011

Grooved Arete 8a+, Kilnsey. Ph. Dom Joyce

After good results at the Europeans I unfortunatly slipped off at the second clip in the Open Youth competition in Ratho which forfeited my place in the World Championships. This was a hard mistake to come to terms with as the World Championships was the event this year’s training had been for. I was feeling as fit as I have ever been and had trained specifically for the Ratho wall.

I did however get involved in the competition as I wanted to support my friends in the team; I ended up having a hard weekend of cleaning routes with the international setters, filming and was hired by the event organisers to perform with my fire group as part of the opening and final ceremony. This involved speed climbing with fireworks going off beside us and fire dancing on top of the big boulders in Ratho to the 500 odd audience!

Fortunately the fitness gained for that competition was just what I needed for my projects outside. I spent 3 amazing weeks at Kilnsey ticking a lot of my long term projects including my first 2 8a+’s Urgent Action and Grooved Arête.

October was the BLCC and I was feeling the burn from overtraining and trying to maintain peak performance for too long. After sketching the qualifiers I switched onto auto pilot for the finals and managed to win for the first time, it was a brilliant way to finish the year and reach my goal set at the start of the year. The next day was the seniors which due to the new age groups I was also eligible to enter. I decided it would be good practice. Topping both qualifiers put me in the final where Ed and I led the show on a wicked route across the whole of the Ratho roof. Ed won the title a single hold ahead of me. I was super psyched to come 2nd in seniors!

I have taken a much needed rest for a month (Including winning the Open youth Competition in Liverpool!) and now started training for next year, this is including running to school, conditioning, Beastmaker in my lunches and training in the evenings. I am looking forward to next year’s competitions and climbing in Europe next summer.

Earlier in the year I did a shoot with Keith Sharples for his 2011 Climbing Calendarand got a full page picture on the month of August. I have also completed a 2 page interview for Psyched the BMC competition newsletter this should be out some time soon in the New Year.

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