Luke Tilley's avatar
22 May, 2012
By Luke Tilley

Back to Trad

When you grow up in the British climbing world you hear a lot about the traditional climbing. The desire to go out and climb great clean lines is breathed into us at the wall,...

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11 May, 2012
By Luke Tilley

Devon Delights

A week with the family in Devon to see our old neighbours was a beautiful trip, amazing food, amazing old friends, amazing family time and a small but amazing taste of some rock...

2010 Till When?'s avatar
10 May, 2012
By 2010 Till When?

Builders and birthdays in Baku.

The perfect campsite. You might think that would be found high in the Himalayas, or beachside overlooking a picture perfect ocean. But as Mummy always says, beauty is in the eye...

Claire O'Hara's avatar
01 May, 2012
By Claire O'Hara

US adventures part 1

Grand Canyon, Las Vegas, Creeking, Freestyling, Squirt Boating and more..

So it is finally time to stop kayaking for just a few hours to send an update on my US adventures so...

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30 April, 2012
By Luke Tilley

The Nuts and Bolts

The sport has kicked off surprisingly well, still running on arms of capacity. No training; just been climbing recently and had some pretty good days considering, probably to...

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30 April, 2012
By Alpkit

With Love From Madagascar

Last year we supported The Shipwrecked Rambler, Klara Harden on a solo trip through Iceland from which she produced the film Made in Iceland. This year she has another film in...

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17 April, 2012
By Alpkit

Antarctic Diaries 2012 - Part 5

Monday 5th March
Terrapin Hill
We awoke this morning to a howling gale and the sound of snow being hurled against the tent. So we turned over and went back to sleep. By 8.30,...

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17 April, 2012
By Alpkit

Antarctic Diaries 2012 - Part 4

Friday 2nd March
Terrapin Hill
This morning, excited to be finally ashore, we rose early and got the water boiling for our porridge. We had some jerry cans of ship’s water,...

Alpkit's avatar
16 April, 2012
By Alpkit

Cold Summits- Denali Exped 2012

So what happens when climbers with varying skills and ages get together on Denali for 4 weeks? Team work and support will undoubtedly come to the fore, so we’re looking forward to...

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12 April, 2012
By Alpkit

Good from the Bad

24 Hours of Exposure 2012. April 7 Newcastleton. Scott Swalling

The rain pelted the canvass and wind crashed into the tent as finally I drifted off, thinking that the course will...

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12 April, 2012
By Alpkit

Antarctic Diaries 2012 - Part 3

Wednesday 29th February
On board the ship
It is 1300 and we are about the leave the natural harbour of Deception Island. We have sat here for two days but high winds prevented...

Alpkit's avatar
04 April, 2012
By Alpkit

Antarctic Diaries 2012 - Part 2

Saturday 25th February
On board the ship.
Last night the ship again ran into a wall of ice in Antarctic Sound and had to turn back north again. The most recently acquired...

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30 March, 2012
By Alpkit

Antarctic Diaries 2012 - Part 1

Friday 17th February 2012
On board the Ship
This morning the team set sail en route to Antarctica. This is the first season south for the new ice breaker to Antarctic waters...

20 March, 2012
By Paul Swail

MIC training at the Brenin

It has been a pretty unsuccessful winter for many, but lucky for me mine has been very productive! I managed to get my Winter Mountain Leader finished off (7 years after doing my...

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19 March, 2012
By Shauna Coxsey

CWIF 2012

The Climbing Works International Festival, CWIF has a big reputation for a UK competition, world class route setters at one of the biggest bouldering walls in the UK attracts...

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07 March, 2012
By Alpkit

Vin Cox - Hungry Bike Ride

We caught up with Vin before he heads off on his new venture The Hungry Bike Ride, to find out more about it. You can always keep up to date from Vin’s Facebook page

The idea...

Alpkit's avatar
06 March, 2012
By Alpkit

Patagonia Expedition Race 2012 - Summary

‘So, what races have you done before?’
‘Errrm, None…’

This was quite a common conversation for us in the days prior to the race, it usually ended with shocked and concerned...

Nick's avatar
22 February, 2012
By Nick

Kungsleden Gear prep

So I’ll be doing the Kungsleden Ski Tour and once on the trail I’m planning on taking the following route, if i get a clear run with the weather I might go to the Kaitumjaure hut...

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22 February, 2012
By Nick

Kungsleden Ski Tour

The Kungsleden is a 450km trail system in the very North of Sweden. I guess in a way it’s a little like the pennine way just a little longer and in parts quite remote. In winter...

Alpkit's avatar
20 February, 2012
By Alpkit

En route to Antarctica.

Beth Davies and team are on their way to Antarctica.
The team have arrived in Port Stanley, Falkland Islands. I feel like I’ve been travelling for weeks! Aberystwyth –...

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17 February, 2012
By Alpkit

Arrowhead 135 - the 2nd 24(+) hours

27 hours 39 mins: It was snowing when I left the checkpoint. This irrationally annoyed me because the flakes kept hitting my eye lashes and ensured that I walked the next few...

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17 February, 2012
By Alpkit

Arrowhead 135 - the 1st 24 hours

A couple of weeks have passed since the Arrowhead 135 ultra race in Minnesota ended. Enough time for me to grab some sleep and wear out the excuse that my feet were sore so...

Dan Bradley's avatar
06 February, 2012
By Dan Bradley

On the road to nowhere… getting back to fitness

I get asked a lot how to get fit or get better at climbing. Most of the time my answer is the same; unless you are prepared to start a specific training plan just do more. In May...

Alpkit's avatar
31 January, 2012
By Alpkit

Patagonia Expedition Race 2012 preparation

The 10th edition of the Patagonia Expedition Race gets underway on the 14th of Feb. Having undergone a selection process, of the 20 teams there will be one from the UK and they...

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30 January, 2012
By Alpkit

Back to Antarctica

Antarctica season #1 saw Bethan Davies and team head out to James Ross Island back in 2011. In just over a weeks time she’ll be heading back out there with a slightly different...

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23 January, 2012
By Alpkit

Arrowhead 135 - run

Arrowhead 135. Northern Minnesota USA. Deep Winter ultra-endurance, bike, ski or run. Paul Errington took it on by bike back in 2010, this year will see Lee Peyton heading out to...

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23 January, 2012
By Ramon Marin

Cogne/Dobbiaco - part 2

...5 days to go, and no M11’s around… So what do we do? Change clothes, get the espresso maker going in the car park and start driving to the Dolomites in search of some hard...

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23 January, 2012
By Ramon Marin

Cogne/Dobbiaco - part 1

This week I was called the “epitome of dedication”. I think they might be right. Kris and I have been training for a specific goal this winter, our first proper M11. I’ve climbed...

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05 January, 2012
By Ramon Marin

Lip Project

A few days later we were driving again in the dense Welsh rain. Are we going climbing, really? Yes, drytooling will sort you out in the grimmest days. My day started with hardly...

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03 January, 2012
By Luke Tilley

Leeds!

Wow hit in the face by University, international competition seems a doddle in comparison! I have begun a new challenging period; with a base in Leeds climbing has potential to be...

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29 December, 2011
By Ramon Marin

The “Goods” bootcamp

Winter has finally arrived, time to dust off the ice axes. I have to admit I’ve been putting it off as much as I could, the summer has been way too good to let it go that easy....

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20 December, 2011
By Nicola Beeby

Getting my kayaking video skills up to scratch

Having a few big adventures planned for 2012 I’ve decided I want to get my video and editing skills up to scratch! With this in mind I thought I’d put my new Go-Pro to the test...

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19 December, 2011
By Pete Dollman

Westway Christmas Party and drytooling extravaganza

Last Friday was the Westway climbing centre’s Christmas bash, featuring an open drytooling comp using Figfours on the Westway’s impressive outdoor lead wall to kick off the...

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13 December, 2011
By Nicola Beeby

Training has begun

For a while I’ve fancied the idea at having ago at adventure races, not sure why but they do look like fun, so I’ve signed up for one on the 1st April 2012 - The Haglofs open 5...

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08 November, 2011
By Ramon Marin

8a with no spurs

Hardly a month goes by before hearing that some super-wad has climbed yet another 9a+ route. Young guns nowadays have it quite hard to make a name for themselves, the bar has...

Alpkit's avatar
07 November, 2011
By Alpkit

British Universities Kayaking Expedition Venezuela - Full Video

The Expedition went to the amazing South American country, Venezuela.  Based around 3 locations; the steep, boulder rivers in Merida, the 33,000 cumecs Rio Orinoco monster and...

Kenny's avatar
02 November, 2011
By Kenny

Reflecting on the Big Shakeout

We were well past the point of no return when we decided the Big Shakeout was a mistake. Everything was committed, but we were queueing up in line to bail.

Lemmings are born...

Nicola Beeby's avatar
24 October, 2011
By Nicola Beeby

Trying the Kangri

A few days before heading to Scotland for a kayaking trip I borrowed the new Kangri tent from Alpkit. I had been looking for a “proper” tent for a while as up until now i’ve been...

Anna Kennett's avatar
20 October, 2011
By Anna Kennett

Pick of the Big Shakeout

As the new girl in the Alpkit team I’m quite excited to be writing my first daring deed! Jim has asked us to write about our favourite bit of this weekend’s Big Shakeout...

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20 October, 2011
By Luke Tilley

British Lead Climbing Championships 2011

There is still so much to tell about a complete shake up of my routines having started studying at Leeds University, but here is a quick update on the competition circuit!

I...

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20 October, 2011
By Alpkit

Uniyakers Venezuela Sum Up

The Uniyakers are back from their expedition to Venezuela and here they sum up a great trip.

All photos © Rob Moffatt. Thanks Rob

In Venezuela, thousands of unknown rivers...

Luke Tilley's avatar
12 October, 2011
By Luke Tilley

Climbing in the Ariege

You must excuse my lack of updates, I know you have heard this many times from many people and I don’t deserve any sympathy but I have just been so busy! Hear me out, enjoy and...

Alpkit's avatar
12 October, 2011
By Alpkit

Made In Iceland

The Shipwrecked Rambler, Klara Harden embarked on a solo voyage across Iceland and to document the journey. Enjoy the photos. The film will be premiering at our Big Shakeout 15th...

Johnny's avatar
08 September, 2011
By Johnny

Ultra Tour of the Lake District - The Lakeland 100

Following my previous article, it has been a month of lounging around and not much running, except for an amazing day/night/day/bit-of-a-night out in the Lakes.

The Lakeland 100!...

Kenny's avatar
04 September, 2011
By Kenny

Giro di Monte Bianco

The Tour of Mont Blanc is an 11 day trek around Mont Blanc. I didn’t have 11 days, I wanted to keep a lunch appointment with a friend in 3 days time, but I did have a bike and...

Kenny's avatar
02 September, 2011
By Kenny

Work hard, canoe home

Over the years of commuting to and from work in Ilkeston team Alpkit has driven, cycled, bused, walked and run, but there was one mode of transport that we all participate in...

Nick's avatar
01 September, 2011
By Nick

Coasteering with Boulder Adventures

Messing about on rocks near the sea or as they call it now - Coasteering

Every year we try and get the most out of our company, our friends, our family and some dubious hangers...

Alpkit's avatar
30 August, 2011
By Alpkit

Team Sky Ropes

A crack team from Alpkit GHQ headed to Thornbridge Outdoors in order to see what they could throw at them.

The Big Shakeout weekend is all set to get the adrenaline pumping for...

Alpkit's avatar
25 August, 2011
By Alpkit

Learning on the road

Last month James and Adrian headed off on a 100 day tour of over 20 European countries. Although very familiar with the two wheeled type of transport, when it comes to cycle...

Alpkit's avatar
24 August, 2011
By Alpkit

Antarctic Season #2

At the beginning of the year Bethan Davies and crew spent a few months on James Ross Island, Antarctica. Well they are due to head back again in 2012. You can catch the first...

Alpkit's avatar
22 August, 2011
By Alpkit

Rain-stop-Sun-stop-Wind-stop

The Shipwrecked Rambler- first telegram from Iceland

Experience the horizontal rain, cross ice-cold rivers and climb up mountains. THIS IS WONDERFUL!

Back in Reykjavik for a...

Shaggy's avatar
22 August, 2011
By Shaggy

Detours, illness and the Colorado Trail race

Done! That was amazing. Super hard.

5 days 15hrs and 10th place, I think. Very ill the first few days but got myself sorted and nailed all the hard sections to make up a lot of...

Luke Tilley's avatar
22 August, 2011
By Luke Tilley

Triple Success

Three weeks at Ceuse and my time here draws to a close, what a trip it has been so far!

The end of last week saw a quick dispatch of Radote Joli Pepere a stunning line starting...

Jay's avatar
19 August, 2011
By Jay

Geo-Caching

A giant game of puzzles, gps and treasure hunting!!

So how easy is it to do and what do you need? Surprisingly little, a smartphone that can go on the net, some sort of gps...

Izzy Bolger's avatar
11 August, 2011
By Izzy Bolger

Canoe Safari teaser.

Water…it’s my biggest fear apart from wrists, but that’s another story completely. I can swim and have all my life saving awards, but give me the choice of land or sea and...

Alpkit's avatar
11 August, 2011
By Alpkit

Uni Kayakers in Venezuela

After arriving into the boiling heat of Caracas we started a long drive West to a rafting base near Barinas. Here we spent a few days finding our feet paddling the local rafting...

Colin's avatar
09 August, 2011
By Colin

Going Underground

I’d never been caving, never really having the inclination to venture into the belly of the Earth whilst the outer surface gave me ample space to run around waving my arms in a...

Nicola Beeby's avatar
05 August, 2011
By Nicola Beeby

Short trip to Slovenia

For my second trip to the alps this summer, I headed to Slovenia for what I guessed would be blue skies, clear emerald green water and good paddling, and it didn’t disappoint....

Nick's avatar
04 August, 2011
By Nick

Walking to work

Today I walked in to work, it took me 2 1/2 hours. I didn’t wake up any earlier and I got into work about 15 mins late. I decided to do it 39mins before I set off so I didn’t need...

Shaggy's avatar
31 July, 2011
By Shaggy

Colorado Trail Race

Tomorrow at 06:30 I’m setting off on the Colorado Trail Race.
Basically, I’m trying to ride just short of 500 miles with 65,000” climbing (twice up Everest or the 21 times up...

Johnny's avatar
28 July, 2011
By Johnny

The long and rocky road to the Lakeland 100… Part 2

Tracey, a supermotivated running friend of mine sent me a Facebook link to the Lakeland 100. It is a 105 mile round of the Lake District, with just short of 21000ft of climbing....

Johnny's avatar
28 July, 2011
By Johnny

The long and rocky road to the Lakeland 100… Part 1

You will rarely hear a runner say that they are in tiptop form, or running really well, especially on the start line of a race. (That is until the gun goes “bang” and everyone...

Luke Tilley's avatar
15 July, 2011
By Luke Tilley

Two classics fall to the flash

I am super psyched to have pushed my personal best with two flash ascents of routes graded 8a+. Femme Blanche is a super classic technical climb starting sustained on a slightly...

Paul Errington's avatar
15 July, 2011
By Paul Errington

The Grenzstein Experience Part 3

The start of day 3 was the same deal as day 2 ... 4.30am alarm and away by 5am.

This time we were straight onto the tank plate then off for a short while then back on for what...

Ramon Marin's avatar
14 July, 2011
By Ramon Marin

Schooled in Ceüse

A couple of weeks ago I booked some flights for a long weekend to Spain in the heat of the moment. I didn’t have a plan, just a vague idea to go and check my friend’s crag to be...

Ashleigh Naysmith's avatar
14 July, 2011
By Ashleigh Naysmith

Falling For the Fun of It

Hello again! It has been a while since my last Daring Deed - turns out my new miniature climbing buddy isn’t a great training partner- she would much rather eat the chalk and...

Luke Tilley's avatar
11 July, 2011
By Luke Tilley

Pushing things Forward

We have picked up the pace in camp Ceuse, the walk in is feeling easier everyday and the classics are falling one by one. We are working a two day on, one day off rotor and I have...

Paul Errington's avatar
08 July, 2011
By Paul Errington

The Grenzstein Experience Part 2

Day 2 was approached more business like… alarm at 4.30am.. we were packed and moving by 5.00am.

The riding in the morning featured a lot of equestrian trail, this means sand.....

Luke Tilley's avatar
08 July, 2011
By Luke Tilley

Settled in Ceuse

A camp above the white cliffs, mayhem through Paris, a night in the hammock and we are finally settled in with the Rig 7 tarpaulin set up with the snazziest tent pegs on the site....

Alpkit's avatar
01 July, 2011
By Alpkit

British Uni’s Kayak Expedition 2011 - Venezuela.

Since the first British University Kayak Expedition to Kyrgyzstan back in 2005 some of the best student kayakers have been chomping at the bit to secure a place on one. Running...

Luke Tilley's avatar
29 June, 2011
By Luke Tilley

Euro rock trip

My bags are packed to bursting, have I got everything? 2 days have passed since the weight of A levels was lifted mercifully from my shoulders. The euphoria has not yet subsided,...

Paul Errington's avatar
28 June, 2011
By Paul Errington

The Grenzstein Experience Part 1

The Grenzstein Experience
“A Political border does not take into consideration the topography of the land which it crosses, the surface upon which it travels or the need of a...

Pete Rhodes's avatar
21 June, 2011
By Pete Rhodes

Simply do fun things

Coming back from Troll Wall was an extremely disappointing event. Over the last few months I’ve gone through a whole host of different stages of motivation and am just now...

Kenny's avatar
21 June, 2011
By Kenny

Lord of the Loops Midnight Madness

The Dark Peak MTB guide had been on my shelf since last years Big Shakeout and now with the long evenings and a full moon it felt like the perfect opportunity to take on the...

Nicola Beeby's avatar
20 June, 2011
By Nicola Beeby

Simply Paddling

I’d heard levels in the alps were at a all time low, and the way people were talking you would think there wasn’t a drop to be found anywhere, So we set off for our 2 weeks in the...

Paul Errington's avatar
20 June, 2011
By Paul Errington

Grenzsteintrophy Monday Update

Sunday..
So far.. 195km on the first day, 230km yesterday but 1100m peak today so 125km ish. Need to average 140km a day from here to make the flight. Tough going from here, only...

Paul Errington's avatar
17 June, 2011
By Paul Errington

Grenzsteintrophy

Bike packed.. bag packed… feeling pretty stressed. The event starts today.. 800 miles to ride… got a schedule to ride too .. lets hope the legs and the mind decide to play ball...

Luke Tilley's avatar
13 June, 2011
By Luke Tilley

The Competition Season Kicks Off

Since being out in Austria my training has taken a turn towards peak performance. The trip marked the start of a short macro cycle in the run up to the first European Youth Cup...

Paul Errington's avatar
08 June, 2011
By Paul Errington

Welsh Ride Thing

Multi day mountain bike events usually involve marked race course and tents or even better hotels smile

The Welsh Ride Thing contained neither ... the event is best described by...

Luke Tilley's avatar
16 May, 2011
By Luke Tilley

Half term with Gourdon

I was introduced to Gourdon the week before Easter, Kenny left him at the climbing centre for me and the staff looked after him in his plastic bag. I instantly knew we would get...

Alpkit's avatar
11 May, 2011
By Alpkit

Climate Change Consortium of Wales

Bethan Davies attends a climate change conference in Aberystwyth

C3W Conference 27th-28th April 2011, Aberystwyth

Last week, in between the two long weekends, I attended and...

Beth Monks's avatar
21 April, 2011
By Beth Monks

Ski-Karting in Sweden

In January, when England was thawing out and after I’d been snowed into my uni room for a good week or two in the midst of November and December’s arctic weather, I was making...

Beth Monks's avatar
21 April, 2011
By Beth Monks

Paragliding over Keswick

Feeling exhausted after a week of sailing I thought it would be a good idea to spend a week learning to paraglide. This was also something completely new to me and I had no idea...

Beth Monks's avatar
20 April, 2011
By Beth Monks

Sailing on Bassenthwaite…

My 2010 was a year of re-establishment and discovery. After finally escaping institution and moving home in August I was ready for some excitement in my new reality. This began...

Alpkit's avatar
14 April, 2011
By Alpkit

Greenland - a dirtbag expedition

“we just want to go and climb big and make a statement for the everyday dirtbag climber”
Fed up with reading the same old stories of the proclaimed ‘rock stars’ doing this and...

Alpkit's avatar
04 April, 2011
By Alpkit

Team Antarctica - The Return

The team (Jonathan Carrivick, Neil Glasser, Bethan Davies, and Alan Hill) were deployed into the field early on 21st January by the RRS Ernest Shackleton after a decidedly rough...

Luke Tilley's avatar
29 March, 2011
By Luke Tilley

Nottingham Boulder League Final

I always look forward to the Nottingham Climbing Centre’s annual Bouldering league. With even more to look forward to this year being the first series in their brand new, bigger...

Luke Tilley's avatar
17 March, 2011
By Luke Tilley

FontaineFun

Home again, every time I go somewhere amazing it seems like no time has passed and I’m back to school. Fontainebleau is one of those places where my time there seems to go far...

Pete Rhodes's avatar
17 March, 2011
By Pete Rhodes

Troll Wall - A (very) short story

My hope by finally writing this up is there is a little catharsis for me once it’s finished. Never have I been more disappointed in my life than by the situations I had to face in...

Luke Tilley's avatar
11 March, 2011
By Luke Tilley

Care Project Performance

Poi-Sons did a very enjoyable voluntary performance on Friday for the Southwell Care Project. This is a local organisation that provide support for Adults with Learning...

Alpkit's avatar
10 March, 2011
By Alpkit

Yukon Arctic Ultra- Race report

The Breakingstrain, Lee and Garry, completed their first Yukon Arctic , here they run down how it went.

Race Day – Sunday 6th February – Whitehorse River Start line

...
2010 Till When?'s avatar
07 March, 2011
By 2010 Till When?

Forced to Rethink

It’s strange how things turn out sometimes isn’t it?

Since our last post for Alpkit we’ve cycled down through Spain, crossed via ferry from Malaga to Melilla and cycled south...

Dan Bradley's avatar
07 March, 2011
By Dan Bradley

Fontainebleau Coaching Week

So the annual trip to the bouldering Mecca Font has happened once again, on February 19th 12 young climbers and 8 Jurassics (older than young) hit the road in a van (boulder mat...

Ramon Marin's avatar
03 March, 2011
By Ramon Marin

Tomahawk M10+

You’ve gotta love climbing. And you gotta love Switzerland. Climbing takes you to stunning places that otherwise you wouldn’t know or even bother. Some local climbers find tucked...

Rob Gibson's avatar
03 March, 2011
By Rob Gibson

No Fondue!

After the initial flip upside down he kept falling.

W.t.f.?  Am I actually holding the ropes?  I remember trying to take in slack to stop his headfirst fall - unsuccessfully.

...
Pete Dollman's avatar
01 March, 2011
By Pete Dollman

1st Outdoor Leisure Show

Well, we’ve finally packed away the last of the stand, scrubbed the last bit of paint from our hair and had a chance to catch our breath to look back at the Outdoor Leisure Show...

Rob Gibson's avatar
17 February, 2011
By Rob Gibson

M12

Virtually no low level snow has made a couple of trips up to the Breitwangflu easier than normal partly because no skis are needed and partly because it is possible to drive up...

Ramon Marin's avatar
17 February, 2011
By Ramon Marin

Head in Gear

It feels that finally I’ve got my head in gear to do stuff, despite not at the level I expected due to many factors. Still, I’m having loads of fun despite the hard work and...

Dan Bradley's avatar
09 February, 2011
By Dan Bradley

Searching for ice on the Ben

So on Thursday evening me and the Captain (Alex Dalton) set off to beautiful rainy and warm Scotland for a smudging of ice climbing. Problem is that most of the snow is gone and...

Rob Gibson's avatar
08 February, 2011
By Rob Gibson

Back in the Saddle

Kandersteg is one of those clean cut Swiss Alpine villages, sheltered in a valley between steep mountains, large wooden chalets and a handful of expensive looking hotels spread...

Troll Wall - A (very) short story

null
The Romsdal Valley

My hope by finally writing this up is there is a little catharsis for me once it’s finished. Never have I been more disappointed in my life than by the situations I had to face in Norway.

It began with a surprisingly easy three day drive, leaving Penrith via the Channel Tunnel I stopped near Bruges on the first night. From here a 13 hour push meant that I crossed 3 countries and arrived in Gothemburg around 9 for tea with a friend and night out of the confines of the van. From here the speed dropped slightly on the less populated road but I cruised up Scandanavia and arrived in Romsdal just after the sun had set.

As I pulled in to the lay-by directly under the face my heart sank. A huge illuminated thermometer read 1C at 7pm that night. The drive up had been sunny but I’d assumed it would be colder as I got north. I was expecting the temperature to be between -5 and -10C for the whole trip as is normal for the area in early March. I went to bed confused but figured I was just punch drunk from all the driving and could think about it properly in the morning.

Rising early the big screen read -2C and the wind was blowing. It felt cold and that was better. I quickly packed a bag with the first load of ropes and began the hike to the face. The trail crosses the rail bridge before diving into the woods and then emerging at the foot of the face. As I crossed out of the woods and onto the snow field below the face it was obvious conditions were far from perfect. The whole snow field was covered in avalanche debris and rockfall which had obviously come down very recently. The going was tough over the loose and soft debris. I found myself constantly watching the slabs I was traversing under as large spindrift falls ran down the face on top of the melting ice holding it together.

At the base of the route the face looked completely unlike I was expecting. Sat on the snow in a t-shirt I looked at the water running out of the cracks, the unconsolidated snow on the ledges and the amount of debris around the base. My brain was in overdrive. Was I looking for the right excuse or was it actually the right decision? I spent a couple of hours watching the face, the spindrift and the rising temperature before leaving the ropes at the base and hiking back to the van. I wasn’t ready to make a big decision so figured another nights waiting and seeing was in order.

In the evening as I made dinner in the van a number of local people drive out to meet me and chat about my plans. Everyone had a theory on how safe the face was, how the temperature was set to change and what the weather was doing. The police drove up to say they’d let the mountainn rescue know I was around and that they’d check in on my van while I was climbing. I was blown away by how friendly everyone was and quite suprised that I was really all that interesting.

Having noted a temperature of 13C when I got down from the face I went to bed with a big glowing 7C shining through the windscreen. By this point and with all the information I’d gleaned it seemed that Romsdal was experiencing a freak early spring. The week before I arrived it had be in the negative teens but the previous two days had been around 10C which explained the massive amount of avalanche debris I had been hiking on.

The morning dawned bright but overnight the temperature rose to 8C. I drove into town to get a fuller weather forecast in the hopes that it would drop cold again as quickly as it had got hot. The forecast however promised another ten day of tis balmy spring weather with the threat of rain and a few small storms. Without doubt the perfect opposite of the forecast I was looking for, all the reasons that I had chosen to climb in winter were completely unfulfilled.

I hiked back to the base having made a decision. I was not willing to get on the face in these more dangerous conditions. I had worked so hard over the last 4 months to be as fit as I could, as mentally solid as I could muster and to have all the best equipment available. It seemed, for me, far too cavalier to throw away this margin of safety I had worked so hard to obtain just because of the pressure and desire to climb the route. It will still be there another time, and when all the aspects align it will be a fun climb without doubt.

The hike back to get the ropes was worse than the day before. A heavy heart didn’t help but the high temperatures had turned the avalanche debris to knee deep slush and the face was pouring with water and sluff. Eventually I managed to grab all the kit and sat to think for a while. In any other arena in the world these conditions could well have been perfect. I know in Patagoina we’d have loved some positive temperatures and sunny days but I am in no rush to be on the Troll Wall in less than perfect and clod conditions. There is of course the chance that another, perhaps slightly more cavalier than myself could have cruised up the route unimpeded by any objective danger and enjoyed the warmer temperatures for a quick ascent. That chance was not one I am willing to take and I am proud of the decision to wait for another attempt.

The drive home was a longer and much lonelier pursuit than the one to get there. A 5 hour German traffic jam did little to add to the joys but I made it home in 3.5 days bitterly disappointed but ready to move on. I’ve realised that getting the chance to make these huge decisions is one of the greatest aspects of the pursuit and so I am happy to have made the right one.

 

17 March, 2011 by Pete Rhodes
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