I get asked a lot how to get fit or get better at climbing. Most of the time my answer is the same; unless you are prepared to start a specific training plan just do more. In May...
The 10th edition of the Patagonia Expedition Race gets underway on the 14th of Feb. Having undergone a selection process, of the 20 teams there will be one from the UK and they...
Antarctica season #1 saw Bethan Davies and team head out to James Ross Island back in 2011. In just over a weeks time she’ll be heading back out there with a slightly different...
Arrowhead 135. Northern Minnesota USA. Deep Winter ultra-endurance, bike, ski or run. Paul Errington took it on by bike back in 2010, this year will see Lee Peyton heading out to...
...5 days to go, and no M11’s around… So what do we do? Change clothes, get the espresso maker going in the car park and start driving to the Dolomites in search of some hard...
This week I was called the “epitome of dedication”. I think they might be right. Kris and I have been training for a specific goal this winter, our first proper M11. I’ve climbed...
Exciting news from the AlpFactory; this week we finally, actually, properly start production (albeit tentatively - baby steps)! On Friday we finished the final production sample...
A few days later we were driving again in the dense Welsh rain. Are we going climbing, really? Yes, drytooling will sort you out in the grimmest days. My day started with hardly...
Wow hit in the face by University, international competition seems a doddle in comparison! I have begun a new challenging period; with a base in Leeds climbing has potential to be...
Winter has finally arrived, time to dust off the ice axes. I have to admit I’ve been putting it off as much as I could, the summer has been way too good to let it go that easy....
Having a few big adventures planned for 2012 I’ve decided I want to get my video and editing skills up to scratch! With this in mind I thought I’d put my new Go-Pro to the test...
Last Friday was the Westway climbing centre’s Christmas bash, featuring an open drytooling comp using Figfours on the Westway’s impressive outdoor lead wall to kick off the...
For a while I’ve fancied the idea at having ago at adventure races, not sure why but they do look like fun, so I’ve signed up for one on the 1st April 2012 - The Haglofs open 5...
Hardly a month goes by before hearing that some super-wad has climbed yet another 9a+ route. Young guns nowadays have it quite hard to make a name for themselves, the bar has...
The Expedition went to the amazing South American country, Venezuela. Based around 3 locations; the steep, boulder rivers in Merida, the 33,000 cumecs Rio Orinoco monster and...
We were well past the point of no return when we decided the Big Shakeout was a mistake. Everything was committed, but we were queueing up in line to bail.
Lemmings are born...
A few days before heading to Scotland for a kayaking trip I borrowed the new Kangri tent from Alpkit. I had been looking for a “proper” tent for a while as up until now i’ve been...
As the new girl in the Alpkit team I’m quite excited to be writing my first daring deed! Jim has asked us to write about our favourite bit of this weekend’s Big Shakeout...
There is still so much to tell about a complete shake up of my routines having started studying at Leeds University, but here is a quick update on the competition circuit!
I...
The Uniyakers are back from their expedition to Venezuela and here they sum up a great trip.
All photos © Rob Moffatt. Thanks Rob
In Venezuela, thousands of unknown rivers...
You must excuse my lack of updates, I know you have heard this many times from many people and I don’t deserve any sympathy but I have just been so busy! Hear me out, enjoy and...
The Shipwrecked Rambler, Klara Harden embarked on a solo voyage across Iceland and to document the journey. Enjoy the photos. The film will be premiering at our Big Shakeout 15th...
Following my previous article, it has been a month of lounging around and not much running, except for an amazing day/night/day/bit-of-a-night out in the Lakes.
The Lakeland 100!...
The Tour of Mont Blanc is an 11 day trek around Mont Blanc. I didn’t have 11 days, I wanted to keep a lunch appointment with a friend in 3 days time, but I did have a bike and...
Over the years of commuting to and from work in Ilkeston team Alpkit has driven, cycled, bused, walked and run, but there was one mode of transport that we all participate in...
Messing about on rocks near the sea or as they call it now - Coasteering
Every year we try and get the most out of our company, our friends, our family and some dubious hangers...
A crack team from Alpkit GHQ headed to Thornbridge Outdoors in order to see what they could throw at them.
The Big Shakeout weekend is all set to get the adrenaline pumping for...
Last month James and Adrian headed off on a 100 day tour of over 20 European countries. Although very familiar with the two wheeled type of transport, when it comes to cycle...
At the beginning of the year Bethan Davies and crew spent a few months on James Ross Island, Antarctica. Well they are due to head back again in 2012. You can catch the first...
The Shipwrecked Rambler- first telegram from Iceland
Experience the horizontal rain, cross ice-cold rivers and climb up mountains. THIS IS WONDERFUL!
Back in Reykjavik for a...
Done! That was amazing. Super hard.
5 days 15hrs and 10th place, I think. Very ill the first few days but got myself sorted and nailed all the hard sections to make up a lot of...
Three weeks at Ceuse and my time here draws to a close, what a trip it has been so far!
The end of last week saw a quick dispatch of Radote Joli Pepere a stunning line starting...
A giant game of puzzles, gps and treasure hunting!!
So how easy is it to do and what do you need? Surprisingly little, a smartphone that can go on the net, some sort of gps...
Water…it’s my biggest fear apart from wrists, but that’s another story completely. I can swim and have all my life saving awards, but give me the choice of land or sea and...
After arriving into the boiling heat of Caracas we started a long drive West to a rafting base near Barinas. Here we spent a few days finding our feet paddling the local rafting...
I’d never been caving, never really having the inclination to venture into the belly of the Earth whilst the outer surface gave me ample space to run around waving my arms in a...
For my second trip to the alps this summer, I headed to Slovenia for what I guessed would be blue skies, clear emerald green water and good paddling, and it didn’t disappoint....
Today I walked in to work, it took me 2 1/2 hours. I didn’t wake up any earlier and I got into work about 15 mins late. I decided to do it 39mins before I set off so I didn’t need...
Tomorrow at 06:30 I’m setting off on the Colorado Trail Race.
Basically, I’m trying to ride just short of 500 miles with 65,000” climbing (twice up Everest or the 21 times up...
Tracey, a supermotivated running friend of mine sent me a Facebook link to the Lakeland 100. It is a 105 mile round of the Lake District, with just short of 21000ft of climbing....
You will rarely hear a runner say that they are in tiptop form, or running really well, especially on the start line of a race. (That is until the gun goes “bang” and everyone...
I am super psyched to have pushed my personal best with two flash ascents of routes graded 8a+. Femme Blanche is a super classic technical climb starting sustained on a slightly...
The start of day 3 was the same deal as day 2 ... 4.30am alarm and away by 5am.
This time we were straight onto the tank plate then off for a short while then back on for what...
A couple of weeks ago I booked some flights for a long weekend to Spain in the heat of the moment. I didn’t have a plan, just a vague idea to go and check my friend’s crag to be...
Hello again! It has been a while since my last Daring Deed - turns out my new miniature climbing buddy isn’t a great training partner- she would much rather eat the chalk and...
We have picked up the pace in camp Ceuse, the walk in is feeling easier everyday and the classics are falling one by one. We are working a two day on, one day off rotor and I have...
Day 2 was approached more business like… alarm at 4.30am.. we were packed and moving by 5.00am.
The riding in the morning featured a lot of equestrian trail, this means sand.....
A camp above the white cliffs, mayhem through Paris, a night in the hammock and we are finally settled in with the Rig 7 tarpaulin set up with the snazziest tent pegs on the site....
Since the first British University Kayak Expedition to Kyrgyzstan back in 2005 some of the best student kayakers have been chomping at the bit to secure a place on one. Running...
My bags are packed to bursting, have I got everything? 2 days have passed since the weight of A levels was lifted mercifully from my shoulders. The euphoria has not yet subsided,...
The Grenzstein Experience
“A Political border does not take into consideration the topography of the land which it crosses, the surface upon which it travels or the need of a...
Coming back from Troll Wall was an extremely disappointing event. Over the last few months I’ve gone through a whole host of different stages of motivation and am just now...
The Dark Peak MTB guide had been on my shelf since last years Big Shakeout and now with the long evenings and a full moon it felt like the perfect opportunity to take on the...
I’d heard levels in the alps were at a all time low, and the way people were talking you would think there wasn’t a drop to be found anywhere, So we set off for our 2 weeks in the...
Sunday..
So far.. 195km on the first day, 230km yesterday but 1100m peak today so 125km ish. Need to average 140km a day from here to make the flight. Tough going from here, only...
Bike packed.. bag packed… feeling pretty stressed. The event starts today.. 800 miles to ride… got a schedule to ride too .. lets hope the legs and the mind decide to play ball...
Since being out in Austria my training has taken a turn towards peak performance. The trip marked the start of a short macro cycle in the run up to the first European Youth Cup...
Multi day mountain bike events usually involve marked race course and tents or even better hotels
The Welsh Ride Thing contained neither ... the event is best described by...
I was introduced to Gourdon the week before Easter, Kenny left him at the climbing centre for me and the staff looked after him in his plastic bag. I instantly knew we would get...
Bethan Davies attends a climate change conference in Aberystwyth
C3W Conference 27th-28th April 2011, Aberystwyth
Last week, in between the two long weekends, I attended and...
In January, when England was thawing out and after I’d been snowed into my uni room for a good week or two in the midst of November and December’s arctic weather, I was making...
Feeling exhausted after a week of sailing I thought it would be a good idea to spend a week learning to paraglide. This was also something completely new to me and I had no idea...
My 2010 was a year of re-establishment and discovery. After finally escaping institution and moving home in August I was ready for some excitement in my new reality. This began...
“we just want to go and climb big and make a statement for the everyday dirtbag climber”
Fed up with reading the same old stories of the proclaimed ‘rock stars’ doing this and...
The team (Jonathan Carrivick, Neil Glasser, Bethan Davies, and Alan Hill) were deployed into the field early on 21st January by the RRS Ernest Shackleton after a decidedly rough...
I always look forward to the Nottingham Climbing Centre’s annual Bouldering league. With even more to look forward to this year being the first series in their brand new, bigger...
Home again, every time I go somewhere amazing it seems like no time has passed and I’m back to school. Fontainebleau is one of those places where my time there seems to go far...
My hope by finally writing this up is there is a little catharsis for me once it’s finished. Never have I been more disappointed in my life than by the situations I had to face in...
Poi-Sons did a very enjoyable voluntary performance on Friday for the Southwell Care Project. This is a local organisation that provide support for Adults with Learning...
The Breakingstrain, Lee and Garry, completed their first Yukon Arctic , here they run down how it went.
Race Day – Sunday 6th February – Whitehorse River Start line
...It’s strange how things turn out sometimes isn’t it?
Since our last post for Alpkit we’ve cycled down through Spain, crossed via ferry from Malaga to Melilla and cycled south...
So the annual trip to the bouldering Mecca Font has happened once again, on February 19th 12 young climbers and 8 Jurassics (older than young) hit the road in a van (boulder mat...
You’ve gotta love climbing. And you gotta love Switzerland. Climbing takes you to stunning places that otherwise you wouldn’t know or even bother. Some local climbers find tucked...
After the initial flip upside down he kept falling.
W.t.f.? Am I actually holding the ropes? I remember trying to take in slack to stop his headfirst fall - unsuccessfully.
...Well, we’ve finally packed away the last of the stand, scrubbed the last bit of paint from our hair and had a chance to catch our breath to look back at the Outdoor Leisure Show...
Virtually no low level snow has made a couple of trips up to the Breitwangflu easier than normal partly because no skis are needed and partly because it is possible to drive up...
It feels that finally I’ve got my head in gear to do stuff, despite not at the level I expected due to many factors. Still, I’m having loads of fun despite the hard work and...
So on Thursday evening me and the Captain (Alex Dalton) set off to beautiful rainy and warm Scotland for a smudging of ice climbing. Problem is that most of the snow is gone and...
Kandersteg is one of those clean cut Swiss Alpine villages, sheltered in a valley between steep mountains, large wooden chalets and a handful of expensive looking hotels spread...
On Monday we went up to have another look at the unclimbed line we spotted after our retreat from “Buch Dich”. The good thing about the line is that it looked that it would go all...
For me the Welsh Ride Thing exceeded my expectations, for a lightweight office working southerner used to his home comforts this really was an adventure, the planning the...
I had covered far fewer miles than I had hoped on the 1st day and when I rose from my warm slumber into the cold damp morning I felt an overwhelming urge to pack up and go home. I...
I’m sure I’m not alone when I say that I always fancied the idea of ‘adventuring’, out in an apparent wilderness, overnight, protecting yourself from the elements, and fuelling...
It took a while to recover from the 3 pitch lead “Rise and Shine”, and not being able to finish the route left a sour after-taste. Trying to find what to do next, that’s good, in...
The Yukon Ultra is taking place from the 6th to the 19th of Feb, for Mountain bikers, XC-skiers and Runnners. The Breakingstrain will be taking our Hunka XL bivvy bag as they run...
We were a pretty close bunch of climbers and we liked to get our climbing fix on a regular basis. The Kelsey Kerridge wall in Cambridge was our home when we were not at either...
It’s proving a slow start with the climbing here at Kandersteg. To start with the conditions are not brilliant, but there’s stuff about to do. When we got here we were feeling a...
Ice climbing competitions are a funny thing, a whole lot of people get together to test against each other, but they all do it for different reasons. What caught my attention last...
After a heavy dose of Christmas cheer and man flu January loomed ahead of me with the promise of shody weather, A level physics and University applications. Fortunately a meeting...
Bethan Davies is en-route to James Ross Island, Antarctica. We managed to pick up some faint signals as she disappeared further South…
17 Jan 2011.
Please find enclosed a brief...
So it was an early start, I left Nottingham at 5.30am to go pick up Kenny, our aim was to get to London to watch the Nottingham Junior team in the British bouldering championships...
Before xmas I walked in to Corie an t’Sneachda to try and rope solo a route. It was raining and whiteout then and by the time I got to the base of The Message my head was...
For the final part of our trip around Nepal we headed to the Himalayan White Water Challenge 2010, held on the Trisuli river, this is conveniently placed half way between Pokara...
Winter has arrived early in Britain this year, and with a vengeance. A lot of people have been able to get out and climb early season routes, but for us southerners stuck at work,...
After good results at the Europeans I unfortunatly slipped off at the second clip in the Open Youth competition in Ratho which forfeited my place in the World Championships. This...
Paul E has been keeping himself busy this Autumn and Winter competing in the NECCL. Here he hits the top three.
NECCL RD 6 - First top 3 ![]()
Its been 2 weeks since my last race… I...
After returning to Kathmandu we soon wanted to leave again and headed to Pokara to base ourselves there for 10 days or so, so we booked a 7 hour bus ride and off we went. Pokara...
The final round of the Scottish Tooling Series arrived at the grand arena of Ratho. Here Pete gives his run down of final proceedings.
Ratho was the perfect setting for the final...
We arrived in Kathmandu and after spending a couple of days getting used to the pace of life here, and seeing the most amazing Devali celebrations, we headed of to the Karnali...
Pete was back in action again at the Ice Factor, this leaves him with just the final at Ratho to come! Get up there on the 27th!
The tooling series is becoming a very enjoyable...
Paul is fresh back from competing in the Arrowhead Ultra 135 which we featured in our February website feature. Paul is now preparing for the next challenge in his series of coldest, highest, hottest rides of the world. Jim catches up with Paul in the Carnegie Labs at Leeds Metropolitan University and took the opportunity to get the beta on his success at the Arrowhead Ultra 135.
Did you have a plan?
The snow over the past few weeks in the UK and the trip to the Alps was awesome training but nothing prepares you for the cold and the remoteness of the race. The weight limit imposed by the airlines meant I flew with my freezer tested trail mix and gels, everything else I wanted to eat I was hoping to buy there. However my race breakfast consisted of doughnuts and coffee with pretzls and peanut butter from a gas station for the trail… don’t you just love American food.
In my head I had split the race into four sections. The first section to Gateway was wide, flat and very straight trail with a few twists and turns towards the end. I was just going to see how things went, see how my body performed and how the bike ran in the snow. Within an hour guys were off their bikes flapping their arms trying to get warm again. Fortunately I didn’t seem to have any problems with the cold and could keep going.
How was the trail?
Although the trail was really wide, the middle had been churned up by the snowmobiles which left about a foot of good snow at the side. The guys with the big snow tyres churned up about 8 inches of this which left me 4 inches on the side of the trail. I was surprised at the concentration I had to put in to ensure I stayed on this. If I strayed onto the looser stuff my wheel would wash out and I’d have to start all over again.
What awaited you at Gateway?
There was very little banter on the trail, you pretty much had to ride wheel to wheel in a long peleton, if you wanted to over take you had to risk the loose snow as you hopped from wheel to wheel. As I rode up to Gateway there were about 15 bikes outside. Inside there was a really good vide and camaraderie. We had all got through the first stage and more importantly enjoyed the trails.
Did the trail stay flat?
From Gateway to Melgorges the trail turned into rolling hills, which turned into bigger rolling hills which turned into short sharp climbs. I had to push up and then hang a foot out on the way down to stop the bike washing out. It was dark and everything was intense. No light pollution made the stars so bright above the black silhouettes of the trees and in the distance the white line of the trail pointed towards another steep climb.
I got some welcome warm food at Melgorges and the warmth of the cabin was awesome. We had heard people were starting to drop out at Gateway and I knew I couldn’t stay long otherwise I would have succumbed to the warmth. I got back onto the trail and about half an hour later I got a flat. I was really cold and the last thing I wanted to do was take my hands out of the pogies to change the tube. I knew there were trail shelters about every eights miles and I couldn’t remember seeing one so figured I must be quite close to one. They are stocked with wood so my plan was to light a fire, get in my bag for a quick sleep and then change the flat when I had warmed up. One of the race snowmobiles told me the shelter was a little way up the trail… at 70mph I guess it was. I thought about bivvying and waiting for sunrise for some motivation to change the flat but I couldn’t face the idea of waking up to see the shelter a few metres up the trail, so I kept going.
Was the trail shelter a log cabin?
I wish. There was a running joke amongst the Alaskans that a shelter has 4 sides and a log burning stove. One with 3 sides was where you kept your horse.
How long did it take to find a shelter?
I finally got to a shelter after about 3 hours of pushing and I just kept telling myself I was getting closer to the end of the race with every step. Changing the tube was coldest thing I have ever done. All my liner gloves were damp and the only dry gloves I had left at this point were a big pair of mitts. Everything I touched stuck to me, it was so frustrating. Once I got going I still had 20 miles to go before the next checkpoint, The Cresent Bar & Grill. It took me 12 hours to cover the 40 miles from Melgorges to the Cresent Bar and Grill.
What did you feel like when you arrived at the Cresent Bar & Grill.
I was pretty beaten when I arrived there. There was a teepee set up with a roaring fire which helped with moral. I knew I was almost at the end of the race but I was shattered, I had to try and get some sleep.
Why did you bivi on the trail rather than catch some z’s in the cabin?
I could have slept in the cabin but I figured I can sleep in a cabin anytime and once you succumb to the warm environment it would have been really hard to leave and get back on it. So after a short stop to take on water I set back off up the trail again. Experiences like this are so rare you have to take every opportunity you can. I decided to bivi when I was out of site of the checkpoint. If I am ever to take part in more extreme snow races I need to know what it feels like to sleep at these temperatures.
How cold was it?
I guess it was about -30, -35 or something. I unrolled my bag, got some food out, took off my outer layers and crawled inside. Christ it was cold!! My bag although un-compressed had been on the front of the bike and was at -30 too. I was cold already and Nicks words rang inside my head, a bag won’t heat you up, you’ll heat the bag. I got speaking to the Alaskans who had a pretty sweet system going on. Inside their sleeping bag they had a prepared bag containing torch, food, dry socks, gloves and hand warmers. This meant they could quickly get inside crack the hand warmers and eat some food without wasting time finding stuff located in various bags on the bike. It’s all about experience on these races. They’re just super organised.
Did you sleep?
I tried and I guess I may have got a few minutes of sleep but it didn’t feel like it. At dawn I got out of the bag and back on the bike. 22 miles lay between me and the finish and it was pan flat, hard snow. The sun was out and I was riding in just a thermal. I was gunning it.
How did you clothing perform?
For pretty much all the race I wore my Montane Extreme Jacket and a base layer. I definitely wasn’t cold when riding and in the day when the sun came out I was actually too warm. I rode the entire race in salopettes but I think I could have got away with a thick riding tight.
Would you have change any of your kit?
My knees suffered really badly as I haven’t riden on flats for years and I got frustrated with the lack of power. The top guys all rode on spd’s with super modified footwear, kinda Shimano shoes, inside snow covers with holes in the soles and all glued together. It seemed to work really well for them. I should have stuck to flat bars too. I was hoping the Jones bars would give me loads more positions whilst riding and pushing. The longest continuous ride I have done on them was 5 hours, but after 30 on the Arrowhead my hands were numb diagonally across the palm and I still haven’t regained all feeling yet.
Was singlespeed the right choice?
I don’t do gears, singlespeed is my thing so why would I chose to ride anything else. The fastest guy on a singlespeed did it in around 23 hours or so. Most the guys on skinny tyres were riding 29ers. I was disappointed I didn’t hit my target of 24 hrs but I have learn’t so much. The top guys here basically ride snow everyday, everything is considered and paired down. You can only do this through experience.
Do you think they compromised safety over winning?
No, these guys ride in the snow all the time. Yes their gear was pretty much as light as you could get but they have everything they needed to survive the 2 or 3 hours it would have taken for a snowmobile to come across them.
What did their kit weigh?
Their gear was on the limit of the minimum compulsory weight of 15 pounds. My stuff weighed in at 19 pounds, plus bags, water and food. There is a lot to take away from this race. Nick’s tip on water was perfect. The thought of carrying that stove, fuel and pans now seems crazy.
What was it like at the finish?
The atmosphere was cool but everyone still had to be ferried the 140 miles back to the start so when I arrived the first guys back had already left. It would have been really nice to spend an evening with everyone that took part, share stories and swap experiences, but I am hooked on snow racing thats for sure.
Cheers Paul, good luck in Nepal at the Yak Attack next month.