Couple of things/thoughts:

First, I’m pretty skinny (36” ish chest) and pretty tall (6’ 2”), which is a rubbish combination when it comes to choosing coats/jackets/jumpers/whatever, because to get long enough sleeves I have to buy a much larger size than I otherwise would. My Buffalo, for example, is a 44” chest, which is almost big enough to do up around my shins when I’m curled up. Any chance of doing a couple of different sleeve lengths so I can have a nice snug fit?

Secondly, what about some kind of sleeve pocket? I have one on my ski-jacket, and it’s a brilliant place to store little things without having to let all the cold in to get to an inner pocket.

Also, is there any reason you’ve chosen to display the black text in the sizing chart on a black background? It’s possible to read if you highlight it, but not everyone can benefit from a brain the size of a planet…    *cough*

I received my belay jacket today and am pretty impressed so far. The only issue is the sizing. I’m a 36-38 ” female and the jacket fits well everywhere except around my hips where it is a little tight. I guess when I’m wearing a harness this section will be open anyway but maybe a male/female version may be necessary? lovely bright colour though (green version), I like the inside pocket and the zips are nice and high on the outside pockets. As mentioned above, a clip to attach gloves to the cuffs might be a good idea too?

Can’t wait to try it out!

I’m sure they’ve been dreading someone asking to have two different cuts, one for each sex. But having different sleeve lengths is, I imagine, financially unviable. My personal feeling on sleeve pockets is that I don’t like them, but if they were useful to this design then by all means. But unlike a ski jacket where you do need to store small things, a belay jacket will not be worn all the time and three (maybe four or five) pockets should suffice and if they don’t, chances are you will have carried your belay jacket in something, namely a rucksack.

Also on colours, the brighter the better. And I can’t tell from the pictures but are the wrist cuffs elasticated? Having them excessively big, but with elastic tape (stretchy but not under excessive tension) makes them far more useful for more things. Obviously it’s asking for the impossible but it would be great if they would make a seal over just your naked wrists, or a heavyweight gauntlet over a base layer, over a fleece, over a shell. Frequent pulling open velcro tabs just to put a coat on or take it off, is not only tiresome but knackers the velcro on even the best made jackets.

Ordered a small, I’m pretty tall (~6ft) and slim (28” waist) and a small in most other brands (Montane, Rab, Patagonia). 

I’ve a Haglofs barrier zone in small and compared to that my 0Hero is certainly a snug fit.  Tried on over a base layer and a thin softshell.  When wearing a harness, for me, the lower zip is definitely needed.  After initially thinking it rather too small, I’m actually quite keen on the close fit, only perhaps just an inch more in the waist and chest but not enough to justify the next size up.  Sleeve length was ok for me, or at least not noticeably short.

Hood nicely functional, simple adjustment, fits over my helmet (a meteor), and sits back orderly enough when not over the head.

I’ve no issue with the height of the outside pockets, pretty much cut to the sleeve anyway?  Don’t expect pack belt to interfere as would be clipped behind rucksack for climbing?

Difficult to comment on quality of the insulation, but seems to be reasonable amount of “puff” while still compressing well enough.  Overall it’s a good weight and pack size that I’d be content to carry.

Very much like the simplicity of the jacket as it is, beyond maybe those internal elasticated mesh pockets mentioned, I don’t think it needs anything more.

New 0hiro jacket arrived this morning and it’s way too small! I’m 5ft7, ‘bout 9stone with about a 35”ish chest and a waist under 28”, more often than not clothes in small men’s size are are quite baggy on me hence I’m fortunate to be able to shop tax free in th 14-16yrs range to get clothes that fit properly.
Putting the small 0hiro on just over my t-shirt it is extremely tight, particularly across my chest, and is like a corset when wearing it on top of t-shirt plus my hard shell (mountain equpment ogre which is size small and like most other small sizes nice and baggy). Because its so small it would probably be quite restricting to belay in
For me the arms are about the right length, and the length fits but could do with being longer, but again as I’m smaller than most, this means that for small adult they’re probably still too short especially if you’re to wear anything more than a t-shirt under it.

I’ve sent it back and with any luck will get the medium which will hopefully fit better, shall see in a few days!

Ps.
So you can see the fitting yourself I’ve attached a few photos of me wearing the Small 0hiro over a t-shirt and photo of me in my small men’s mountain equipment ogre jacket for comparison.

Ps. Hopefully taking it to the alps in a couple of weeks so will be able to give it a good test run. Shall report back as and when!

Hmm, after trying it on over another jacket think I might also exchange mine for a medium.

Looking at metcalmd02’s photos, it’s a similar fit on me.

Not used it properly yet, but here are my initial impressions:

Fit:
Average build male, height 6’, chest 40”, bought size Large, fits perfectly in all areas. Good fit over t-shirt only and with a similar jacket under also.
Hood fits well and size & tightness of collar around chin is about right (loose enough for an undergarment with a collar, but not too loose)

Styling:
I really do like the clean/simple/minimalist styling with the simple cuffs and hidden hood cords - although they do detract form the comfort – I think the webby mentions alternative pull cord wotsits supplied with, but I don’t think I got any – are these smaller?

Main pockets:
It has been suggested that higher pockets would be more practical/compatible with a rucksack etc.  My use for the jacket would be mainly for hanging around when camping and cragging, thus practical issues are less of an issue, but more so that of comfort.  I find the current location of the pockets perfect for sticking my hands in and relaxing.  Higher pockets may not be as comfortable.

Collected mine this morning, so it’s only been used in the extreme environment of our local fields for walking the dog.

Feel - face material and lining feels pleasant to the touch. The insulation doesn’t feel too bulky and ‘nappy-ish’

Fit - I ordered the XL and it seems a touch smaller than my XL Fitzroy but there’s not much in it. I stuck it on over the top of a hoody and it was a comfortable fit with no tight spots.

Length - sleeves are fine, body length seems shortish at the front in relation to my jeans waistband, but might be less of an issue if I had on outdoor trousers that sat round my waist, rather than my hips. Quickly tried it with my harness and it wouldn’t really interfere with my belay loop - I would probably let the jacket scrunch up slightly rather than fanny about with the zip, especially if wearing heavy gloves.

Hood - fits over my Wild Country helmet fine, even when I put the hood of my sweatshirt over it first. The hood of the 0Hiro does seem a bit ‘short’ at the sides - I think if I was wearing this in the Cairngorms in winter in a blizzard, I’d want my head to feel ‘inside’ the hood a little bit more.

Warmth - It’s currently 10-11 deg outside and windy so probably not the conditions this jacket was designed for but to quote the lovely Joy from My Name is Earl,  “I was sweating like a whore in church” when I took the dog for a walk wearing it over a hoody.

Pockets - don’t mind them where they are. I’d like to see Patagonia style big mesh pockets on the inside for bunging gloves and so on. My vote would be against a sleeve pocket, as I find them a pain in the ass on ski jackets.

Overall - well impressed with the quality and fit at this initial stage. It’s not as polished a product as my Fitzroy, but, as it often the case with Alpkit gear, it seems robust, functional and attractive at less than half the RRP.

Received on Tuesday and not yet used in anger. First thought are that it is slightly on the tight side around the chest although the arm and body length are fine, I think another inch or so around the chest would give a better fit. Will be in Snowdonia this weekend so will give it a better test.

Haven’t done anything except try it on and take it off again yet. It’s very hot indeed when the ambient temperature is 19 C…

I’m 183 cm tall and (squints at tape) 108 cm chest, and the Large fits well. It also also fits over a down vest without compressing it much. The forearms are maybe a little bit snugger than I’d like.

The wire of the peak is a little bit long without a helmet - when I pull in the cords, the wire interferes a lot with cinching in at the cheeks. Maybe 5 cm shorter on both sides?

After reading the posts above and trying the jacket on, I think there’s room for a mesh poacher’s pocket inside the scoop tail, which might even be big enough for a stuff pocket for the whole jacket. Pop the bottom zipper up a little bit and access to a pocket there is no problem. I don’t think it would foul a daybag, and I’d definitely prefer something like this to another inside chest pocket.

Picked mine up today - had to go to the post office to sign for it. 

I have got a large and it fits me fine. The material feels nice and the loft seems adequate just now.  I like the weight - it isn’t heavy - and it is very stuffable.  That is my only suggestion thus far - supply it with a dry bag as a stuff sack. 

Only slight gripe is the main zip - I have had bad experiences with blocky plastic zips and much prefer the wire coil style like on the pockets - they are much more robust.

The basic simple design is fine for me.  Great value too.

I’ve not tried it out properly yet - as someone else has said it is too warm at the moment!

trish - 16 June 2009 11:52 AM

Hi I’ve just ordered this jacket. It came today. I ordered a Medium I’m a size 38’‘/40’’ female. I found the jacket too tight in the bust and hips. I considered getting the next size but the cut is too straight and long. I think this jacket is more suited to the male shape. I hope you consider designing a belay coat cut for women in the future. Trish

SNAP !!  how about making a more UNISEX design so us girls can benefit as well?!

like the colours and will probably buy one as i run cold anyway and if it’s slightly too big so much the better will probably wear a shell underneath. the hood looks good also - big size so can be chucked off the head easily !
mel

The addition of thumb loops and D rings for gloves, would be useful.  Two large internal pockets.  Plus, I’d like to see a pass/gps pocket on the arm.  You could put your climbing route discription in this pocket.

As an observation - if it was cold enough to be wearing a belay jacket, would you really want to keep a battery operated device like a GPS on the outside of all your insulation in a sleeve pocket?